Fabric, fabric, fabric!

A Few Words You Should Know about the Fabric Industry

First of all, the most basic terms to familiarize yourself with are “D/R” and “ROT”.

• D/R stands for “Double and Rolled” – in other words, “Fabric on a Bolt”.  This is the most standard way that fabric is shipped and usually the most cost effecient way for shipping.  However, the fact that the fabric is folded before it’s wrapped on the bolt does mean that there will be a crease down the center of it.

• ROT stands for “Rolled On a Tube” and is simply any type of fabric which comes on a roll and is rolled on in a single layer. This method does cost more for shipping since it will automatically be an oversized package.  Usually only fabrics that are 54″ wide or greater will be packaged this way, but many fabric vendors give you the option for ROT or D/R.  One noteworthy factor of the ROT fabrics is that they will not have any crease down the center!

• To sound like a pro, ask them what the “Put Ups” are for the fabric you’re inquiring about.   This is the official fabric industry way to ask how many yards come on a bolt.

Next, the majority of fabric merchants are located in New York and close their offices as early as 3:00 pm.  In addition, a huge number of the leading fabric vendors are of Jewish descent, so many will be closed for all Jewish holidays.  Both of these factors can be important to consider when trying to reach these companies.

How to Deal with the Fabric Industry/ Setting up a Wholesale Account

• First of all, you want to make sure you sound like an industry professional.  Most of these websites, even if they sell wholesale state that, “We do not sell to the general public.”
• Avoid sounding like you’re “just starting up” your business at all costs!
• Be sure you have your business license ready when you call or email, and it helps to end with a link to your website after signing off on an email to add a sense of validity to your case.
• Ask what their minimum order is, but don’t be daunted if one company’s minimum is too high for you.  Chances are good that the next company you contact will be more willing to work with you.
• I would caution you against using the term “designer” too freely about yourself.  The recent influx of wanna-be “fashion designer” students who have little knowledge about sewing or fabrics have given the word negative connotations with fabric connoisseurs! Instead, try saying, “I am the business owner of a clothing manufacture (or whatever your specialty is) company”.
• Also don’t label yourself merely “a seamstress” when talking with the vendors.  To them “seamstress” merely means someone who should be shopping at a retail store, and they certainly don’t want to help someone who isn’t a professional!

Finally, these sources listed above will not be suitable for every single fabric customer.  While many of them are terrifically helpful, others get literally 5,000 orders a day and view one more customer as “just another number”.  You will need determination to work with the fabric industry, and of course you will need to make sure that you really need the amount of fabric it takes to meet their first minimum order.  Some companies have a dollar amount, while others just have a three-bolt minimum for each subsequent order.

But if the sewing business you have started is to the point where you could go through over a couple hundred yards of the same fabric in a year, I would actually recommend going with an international source.  If you are purchasing that large of quantities, it is best to work with the overseas fabric mills directly.  Once you reach this point you have the exciting position of being able to choose exactly what weight and color of fabric you want!  The greatest resource I’ve found for this purpose is www.alibaba.com – a website which is much like a Yellow Pages of Asian fabric mills.  This easy-to-use site has an inquiry form where you can describe what you’re looking for, and within a couple of days you will be receiving quotes and product pictures from dozens of companies all over the Far East!  The minimums for using these mills is obviously quite large, but the prices are generally sold at phenomenal discounts and you have the option to choose exactly what you have in mind.   The other benefit to using this system is that you know your fabric will be re-orderable, unlike the U.S. fabric vendors who frequently discontinue items on a regular basis.

I hope you enjoy browsing these websites that I’ve linked to, and I would be happy to answer any questions you might have!  Fabric is definitely one of my favorite things, and I hope the information I’ve shared will be helpful to you!

Happy sewing,

Katrina